Чего нельзя делать в Иордании

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11 запретов Хашимитского королевства.

Традиционное ближневосточное общество основано на древних традициях и строгом соблюдении норм поведения. Иордания — радушная и открытая страна, однако и в ней есть свои «нет». Итак, чего ни в коем случае не следует делать в Хашимитском королевстве?

Отказываться от кофе

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У бедуинов существует соблюдаемое абсолютно всеми правило: если хозяева дома угощают вас кофе, вы обязаны согласиться. Отказ от угощения приравнивается к плевку в лицо, откровенному вызову и грубейшему нарушению правил поведения. Поэтому, если бедуины предлагают вам чашечку кофе (а скорее всего, вам предложат три или четыре), обязательно соглашайтесь хотя бы на одну, даже если вы ненавидите кофе. Дальше можете ссылаться на высокое давление и проблемы со сном, однако меры приличия будут соблюдены.

 

Показывать подошвы

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Класть ноги на стол — дурная привычка в большинстве стран мира, демонстрирующая неуважение к собеседнику. Однако ее корни лежат как раз-таки в арабской традиции: на Востоке считается, что показать подошвы ботинок другому человеку — крайняя форма неуважения и совершенно недопустимо в приличном обществе. Поэтому, будучи в Иордании, внимательно следите за тем, как вы сидите: не вытягивайте ноги и не задирайте их одна на другую, демонстрируя окружающим подошвы.

 

Ходить в доме в обуви

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Будь это бедуинский шатер или современная квартира, но, входя в дом, обязательно следует разуться. Как правило, полы иорданских домов устланы коврами, и, какими бы ни были чистыми ваши ботинки, их лучше снять. В бедуинских же традиционных шатрах на полу лежат циновки, а сами гости располагаются полулежа на низких кушетках. Находиться здесь в обуви совершенно недопустимо.

 

 

Нарушать туалетный этикет

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Ситуации бывают в жизни разные, и, возможно, как раз знание этих обычаев пригодится вам в Иордании. Коран и сунна утверждают, что входить в туалет следует исключительно с левой ноги, а выходить — с правой. Кроме того, ислам запрещает поворачиваться во время испражнения лицом или спиной в сторону Мекки, а также справлять нужду у мусульманских могил, в банях, в тени, на дороге и во фруктовых садах. Также нежелательно мочиться в норы животных и против ветра.

 

Хвалить маленьких детей 

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На Ближнем Востоке вполне серьезно относятся к сглазу, особенно в отношении детей, ведь те еще не обрели достаточную для противостояния злу силу. Именно поэтому здесь не принято хвалить чужих детей — родители могут счесть это потенциально опасным для чада. Иные даже по имени своего ребенка не зовут, придумав для него какое-то прозвище и отводя таким образом злые силы. Так что, если уж вам непременно хочется сказать о ребенке что-либо приятное, постарайтесь добавить к комплименту его уму, глазам или поведению фразу «по милости Аллаха».

 

Молча принимать гостеприимство хозяев

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Заповедь гостеприимства в исламе — одна из основных. Мусульмане, входя в шатер, оставляли оружие у входа, а хозяева, в свою очередь, не могли атаковать вошедших, будь они даже заклятыми врагами, ведь теперь они — гости.

 

Радушные хозяева, приглашая вас к себе, сделают все возможное, чтобы вам было хорошо: приготовят много вкусной еды, подадут идеально сваренный кофе с домашней пахлавой, развлекут вас танцами и игрой на музыкальных инструментах. В свою очередь, от вас будут ожидать пространных речей о красоте дома, аппетитности еды, прекрасности мебели и тонкости посуды. Приходя в гости к иорданцам, делайте много, очень много комплиментов хозяевам. То, что в России назвали бы лестью, на Востоке — хороший тон, изящная словесность и искренняя благодарность за гостеприимство.

 

Торопиться

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«Шуаи-шуаи» в Иордании — это как «маньяна» в Испании («завтра»). На Востоке, где жизнь течет размеренно и степенно, спешить совершенно некуда. Назначая встречу или планируя дела, не забудьте уточнить, по какому времени встреча: бедуинскому или международному? В Иордании все очень неспешно, все очень медленно, как движение верблюда по песчаным дюнам. Главное, научиться правильно покачиваться в такт.

 

Нарушать Рамадан

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Рамадан — священный месяц в исламе, месяц, в который, согласно традиции, был ниспослан Коран. Также в Коране подробно излагаются правила ведения поста, его заповеди и запреты. Население Иордании, будучи в высокой степени религиозным, соблюдает 29–30 дней поста Рамадана и избегает публичного нарушения его запретов. Туристам также крайне нежелательно в дни Рамадана курить, есть и пить на улице в светлое время суток. Более того, многие рестораны и кафе в этот месяц будут закрыты утром и днем и откроются лишь ближе к вечеру. Несмотря на то что правила поста накладывают запрет на употребление пищи между утренними и вечерними молитвами, запрета на приготовление или хранение еды нет, поэтому места общественного питания активно работают во вторую половину дня, готовясь к вечернему приему посетителей, после вечерней молитвы, когда уже разрешено есть и пить.

 

Спорить с мужчиной

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Иорданское общество — сугубо патриархальное. Несмотря на то что в Аммане, столице королевства, женщины пользуются своими правами, в большинстве своем страна все еще сохраняет традиционный уклад: мужчина — глава семьи, женщина — хранительница очага, у старших по возрасту — социальное преимущество. Вся система устройства семьи и общества построена на этих принципах, и проявление малейшего неуважения или непочитания мужчины, в особенности старшего по возрасту, является грубостью и невоспитанностью — как со стороны местного населения, так и со стороны туристов. Вдвойне сложно приходится женщинам, так как ее социальное подчинение здесь удваивается: и к мужчине, и к старейшинам. Вместе с тем, если вы путешественница и приехали погостить, к вам проявят максимум радушия и гостеприимства, однако не забывайте: в Иордании с мужчинами не спорят.

 

Отзываться плохо о короле

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Короля в Иордании любят все. Это аксиома. В какое бы помещение, учреждение или просто парк культуры и отдыха в Иордании вы ни попали, первое, что вам бросится в глаза, — портреты короля Хуссейна и короля Абдаллы (действующего монарха). Абдалла, равно как и его предшественник Хуссейн, многое сделали для развития Иордании, в особенности для бедуинского ее населения: построили развитую систему дорог, открыли школы в каждом маленьком поселке, подняли уровень грамотности населения и, главное, приложили много усилий для того, чтобы Иордания стала одной из самых стабильных и безопасных монархий Ближнего Востока.

 

Любовь к монархии и Абдалле здесь возведена в культ, а сам Абдалла — кумир абсолютного большинства населения. Кроме того, злые шутки и анекдоты о короле здесь — преступление, карающееся законом.

 

Отказываться от танцев

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Иордания — страна, где танцуют все (в основном, разумеется, мужчины). Дабке, которого существуют более 19 вариаций, — это захватывающий и очень ритмичный линейно-круговой национальный танец, в котором чередуются разные шаги, прихлопывания, притопывания и подпрыгивания. В этот полукруг вовлекают всех, кто проходит мимо либо оказался случайным зрителем. Любой иорданец за пять минут научит вас танцевать дабке, находись вы в амманском супермаркете или посреди пустыни Рам. Свой народный танец каждый уважающий себя бедуин впитывает с молоком матери и всегда готов поделиться знаниями с туристами. Если вас пригласили в круг танцевать дабке, не отказывайтесь: пусть вы поначалу не будете попадать в такт, однако очень скоро войдете во вкус.

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179 thoughts on “Чего нельзя делать в Иордании

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